Bubbly for the Holidays

Special occasions call for Champange - a primer on sparkling wines
Sunday, December 20th, 2009
champagne glasses
When it's time to make a toast we break out the sparkling wine. Legend has it that a french monk by the name of Dom Perignon accidently discovered the beauty of a second fermentation - bubbles!

Not all sparkling wine is created equal.  Why does a bottle of 2000 vintage Dom Perignon cost $150 when a non-vintage bottle of Zardetto Prosecco can be had for $10?

It's all in how the wine is made and the finesse of the final product. Only sparkling wines made in Champagne, France can be called "Champagne".  WInes from other parts crafted in the same manner as champagne are labelled "Sparkling Wine - Method Champenoise".  These sparklers are all made in what is called the "Traditional Method"; the second fermentation, aging and filtering happens in the bottle.

Sparkling wines made in the traditional method are the best and most expensive bubbly.  In this category there is a wide variation in price. Variables that affect price include vintage vs non-vintage grapes, quality of the still wine used, how long the wine is aged, and reputation of the producer.

A step down is the "Transfer Method"  similar to the champagne method, but the process of filtering the final product is done in a batch process instead of by the bottle.

Next in line is the Charmat Bulk Process:  The secondary fermentation takes places in a large tank prior to bottling.

The finest champagnes have tiny, fast moving bubbles.  You will spend more money for the "luxury cuvee" produced by a champagne house (examples are Dom Perignon from Moet & Chandon, Cristal from Roederer and R.D. from Bollinger).  You can spend a little less and still experience an excellent sparkling - one of my favorites is Le Reve Domaine Carneros by Tattinger ($85 a bottle).  Definitely a special occasion wine - you'll enjoy every sip. You can enjoy bubbles at more reasonable prices; my favorites include Gruet blanc de blancs (made in New Mexico - $25/btl), Domaine Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour Brut Rosé ($36/btl), and HEIDSIECK MONOPOLE Brut Champagne Blue Top Premier Cru NV ($37)

Prosecco from Italy is made using the Charmat process.  These wines can be fun and lively, but the bubbles will have less finesse and smoothness than a fine champagne.  I love well made Proseccos - they are the perfect "pick me up" at the end of a long day!

On Christmas morning I will use a less expensive wine to make the mimosas I enjoy sipping.  On New Years Eve I plan to pop a bottle of S Anderson sparkling wine I have in my cellar.  Unfortunately, S Anderson is no longer in production, but you can still purchase it from Cliff Lede.

Cheers!

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