Dancing With the Barrels

In travel as in life, being flexible makes things easier. This morning we arrived at Renacer Winery for a 10:00 tour and tasting only to be told we hadn't been expected. We had made our reservation with the owner who apparently hadn't communicated to the staff. After some negotiation we decided to return at 4:00 in the afternoon when the owner was there.

 

We used the free time we suddenly had to add a winery to our itinerary. We arrived at Salentein a little late for the English language tour, but Guillermo welcomed us to his group. A Dutch company owns Salentein and the modern, minimal décor reflects this esthetic. In fact, we walked through the Killka sculpture garden to get to the winery. The art is modern and striking as is the winemaking facility. We've been in wineries that have to squeeze their operations into the tiny spaces available to them. Salentein's winemaking operation has room for everything, including a theater where musicians come to perform. Guillermo led us through the maceration/fermentation room and barrel room before taking us in for a tasting. He was pretty nimble in his Spanish and English describing the color, aroma, and flavor of the wines. We bought a bottle of the special 2007 Pinot Noir called Primus.

When we arrived at Andeluna a little after 1:00, Carolina met us at the door and offered us a tour or lunch. Wisely, we opted for lunch and what a lunch it was. Six courses paired with wine: fresh salad with fried chicken sticks and creamy lemon and grapefruit dressing with Andeluna Torrontes 2011, trout with beans in butter and rice croquettes with Andeluna Reserve Chardonnay 2009, tagliatelle, confit tomatoes in basil oil with Andeluna Reserve Malbec 2009, grilled beef with potatoes stuffed with mushrooms and brie with Andeluna Grand Reserve Pasionado 2005, a small fruit drink, and strawberry frozen yogurt with marinated bananas. The meal was amazing. We got recipes for the tomato confit and potatoes stuffed with mushrooms and brie from the chef. We'll share after we get them translated. We bought four bottles of the Grand Reserve Pasionado-it was some of the best wine we've had this trip.

We headed back to Renacer to meet the owner and take our tour when we got caught in a flash flood in the small town of Lucon de Cujo. Trucks were swallowed, people were wading barefoot in streams with water up to their knees, and roads were closed-including the road to Renacer. We took the high road and returned to Mendoza. Renacer will have to wait for another day.

 

A little free time for shopping and doing laundry was a welcome respite. Then a bottle of Andeluna Malbec before our dinner at Azafran. The group that reserved the wine cellar at Azafran canceled and we got picked to take their place. In among the wines is a large table with a lazy Susan glass top. We had ponchos to keep warm in the cellar temps and lots of wine to go with our delicious dinner. We drank a bottle of Pulenta Sauvignon Blanc followed by a blend of malbec, cabernet sauvignon and tannat by Bodega Septima and then because we missed the tasting today, we had a Renacer Malbec. Fabulous wines that really worked with the food. It was a great day.