The Gift of Green 2011
I am attracted to the Camellia because of its dark green glossy foliage and the way the branches seem to spiral up and out. Camellia japonica is the species best known to Southern gardeners for its handsome foliage and elegant winter and early spring flowers. A native of Korea, China, and Japan, this camellia has flowers in colors of white, pink and red. Camellia japonica, the common camellia, is the most popular species. They bloom when few other plants do--in late fall, winter and early spring. The blooms are among the most perfectly formed. They provide the best blooms for cut-flower use since they are known for their lasting qualities
If you've been thinking about adding camellias to your landscape, now is a great time. While camellias can be set out anytime of the year if properly cared for, late fall to early spring is the ideal time to plant them.
In our area, camellias prefer light shade and can withstand winter temperatures as low as 10 degrees F. They grow best in loose, fertile soil that is lightly acid and well drained. They cannot tolerate "wet feet". If planted in full sun, the leaves will likely get scalded and turn yellow instead of the normal dark green in Texas summer heat. Camellias grow best in well-drained, organic, sandy, slightly acid soil. Avoid planting near shallow-rooted trees such as cedar elms or Japanese maples. Plant the camellia where it will receive a little east sun, perhaps filtered by a tree. The hot Texas sun will scorch the foliage. Give them a try in your yard.
Some experts say to excavate the planting area, dispose of the native Texas clay, high alkaline soil and refill the hole with a mix of 1/3 washed sand and 2/3 peat. This mix will provide an acid medium for years, extending you plant's life. Planting in our native Texas soil may cause iron chlorosis (plants yellow due to a lack of iron). To grow acid-loving plants such as camellias, use the artificial growing media described above. Use this mixture to maintain an acid condition over a long period of time because of the alkalinity bombardment of water and soil leachates.
Dig a hole at least twice as wide in diameter and no deeper than the soil ball on your camellia; the top of the soil ball should be slightly above ground level when planted. Carefully remove the plant from the container without breaking the soil ball apart. You will want to check the soil ball to determine if the camellia has overgrown its container. If you see roots growing in a tight mass around the ball, use a sharp knife to make 3 to 4 cuts from the top to the bottom of the root ball. Place the plant in the hole and back fill the hole, until the hole is about two-thirds full. Fill the hole with water, make sure the plant is straight and at proper depth, then finish filling the hole.
Place two to four inches of pine straw or bark mulch around the plant to help maintain moisture, shade the root ball and keep the soil cooler.
Camellias should be fertilized and trimmed or shaped up in the spring after flowering is complete. You can use an organic fertilizer or a commercial fertilizer. Camellias require little fertilizing. They are pruned shortly after blooming as later pruning will result in no blooms the following season. Allow plenty of room as it may eventually reach to 7 feet.
Another possibility for growing camellias is to place them in large containers. Grow camellias in a large pot, say 24-inches or bigger clay pot that is placed in morning sun and afternoon shade. The suggested soil mix for your pot is about 1/2 sphagnum peat moss, 1/4 sand, and 1/4 compost.
I love this plant because it blooms in the coldest months of December and January to brighten up your yard. It starts to bloom around Thanksgiving and keeps going for about 6 weeks.
To see camellias in our region, check out the Martha Brooks Camellia Garden at the Dallas Arboretum. They feature more than 30 varieties. Another good reason to visit the Arboretum year round.
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