The Little Black Shoe Makes it Right

Brittany apparently has a sunny side and a rainy side-we left Roscoff this morning and headed for the sun. We drove through dozens of towns side by side along the coast road. These towns, tiny fishing villages really, have their names on the signs in both French and Breton, a language that looks like Welch with all the Ls and Ys. The coastline, with its jutting rocks and wild, low brush, draws tourists, surfers, and fishermen.

Driving a car designed for the left side of the road takes a little getting used to. Luckily I don't have to remember to stay left. The manual gearshift is on the left and the steering wheel on the right side of the car. Once I got a sense of the vehicle's dimensions, driving wasn't difficult, but every time I park, the car seems to double in width.

Our drive took us in and out of rainstorms, closer to and farther away from the water's edge, and past dozens of lighthouses. The coast is rugged and dangerous-the site of many sailors' death. We were whipped by cold winds and nearly thrown into the sea at our visit to the National Memorial to Sailors Who Gave Their Lives for France.

We stopped in a small town called Ploudalmezeau where we had a delicious lunch at Le Caiman. Filled with locals and really too full to take anymore diners when we talked our way in, the place is worth a stop.

Finally we made it to what is known as the sunny side of Brittany. The sun was shining and hot when we arrived at our B&B on Gwendrez Beach. Danielle, our landlady, speaks Italian, French, Portuguese and English, and cooks fabulous vegetarian organic meals. She will serve meat and fish to those who need that animal protein. Tonight she gave us Prosciutto and Mozzarella before her special Genovese pasta dish with pesto, potatoes and green beans-absolutely fantastic. You may bring your own wine if you want.

Our rooms are lovely and private with the sound of the sea crashing outside the windows. The home is clean with white walls and amazing art everywhere. There are four rooms for rent, including a family room with privacy for the parents and a separate space with toys for the kids. Bathrooms are down the hall. Danielle will provide information about local sites and nearby towns. But here, in a warm house next to the prettiest beach in the area, there's really no rush to look for more. You can contact Danielle at gwendrez29@yahoo.fr or 0033 06 13 33 63 74 or check out her website at www.gwendrez.com.