New Year's Eve in Rio

Dressed all in white with flowers in hand, we walked to the ceremony. Not a confirmation or a wedding, our destination was Copacabana Beach. We, and an estimated 2 or 3 million people, flowed down to the beach to greet the new year. Originally a pagan ceremony in honor of the mermaid goddess, Yemanjá, Reveillon has become a giant beach party-this is Rio after all.

Festivities started late afternoon with music on four stages and people picnicking and dancing. When we showed up at about ten o'clock, the beach was packed as far as we could see. Those there for the spiritual aspects of the evening had candles burning and horseshoe shaped altars carved into the sand. Those there for the party had coolers.

Rio has a reputation for being rife with pickpockets and petty thieves. On New Year's Eve even the ruffians are partying. The huge throng was upbeat, cheerful and welcoming. Singles, couples, and whole families from infants (I almost stepped on one) to grannies (one stepped on me) hang out on the beach, dressed in white for luck, waiting for midnight. They dance, play cards, and sing songs that I guess you really have to know to be able to follow as the words were lost in the sounds of surf and crowd.

At about 11:45 Rio time, the tempo picked up and soon the count began--in Portuguese--my kids had learned their numbers, a real plus in ordering beer--dez, novo, oito... The crowd got ahead of the countdown clock and, several seconds before midnight, cheers went up and champagne corks popped. Spraying other people with champagne is one of the practices thought to bring luck in the new year-not my favorite. What I did enjoy was walking into the surf, just past midnight, offering my white gladiolas to the mermaid goddess for luck and making my wish.

After the official new year was cheered, a spectacular twenty minute fireworks show began. Shot from offshore barges, pyrotechnics filled the sky and lit up cruise ships that had come to Rio for the occasion. We sipped our lukewarm champagne, eager for a good year--the goddess did accept my offering so my wish will come true. My wish for all of you is a fabulous 2011.