Perpignan, France: Catalan and French Fusion

When most people think of France, they think of Paris. But, the diverse region of Languedoc-Rousillion in the south, just across the border of Spain and a short drive north of Girona and Barcelona, is an enchanting place to see. The Languedoc region is often called the "poor man's south of France." It starts from the French/Spanish border in the foothills of the Pyrenees with the Côte Vermeille to its southeast border and stretches all the way up along the coast, next to Provence. In this region, there are many castles to explore, wine to taste and, in the fall, one can help harvest their grapes. There's plenty of coastline without the Cote d'Azur cost and interesting opportunities for hiking and biking. In Perpignan, we find friendly people and a ferment of French and Catalan cultures. Steak and pommes frites (on this day we had boar shank and frites), bullfighting, sangria and paella, and street names and building signs both French and Catalan signal this merging of cultures. Perpignan was the capital of the former province and county of Roussillon and the continental capital of the Kingdom of Majorca in the 13th and 14th centuries. Iberian blood flows in the veins of the descendants of the thousands of refugees who fled over the mountains at the end of the Spanish Civil War. Yet, on this recent visit, French is the dominant language and we manage to get by with the petite peu that we speak.

In Vieille Ville (the old town), near the cathedral, is the "Castillet," built by the King of Aragon in 1368 to protect and to control the town. You can still see the arched, pink-brick donjon (dungeon), the corner towers, and the 15th century hexagonal watchtower. The machicolated (projection of the parapet over corbels providing slots that faced straight down to the bottom of the wall so that attackers could be fired at or have hot oil or water poured on them) and crenellated building is both a gateway to and fortress for the village. Part of the charm of the Castillet derives from its bulky-looking tower, which can be climbed for a good view of the town. The widest point of the River Tet flows through the heart of Perpignan, before emptying into the sea. This energetic confluence is one of the best known and most beautiful in southern France and there are a series of boat trips available along the river. If you wish to stay on dry land, there are lovely footpaths along the majority of the river in the heart of the city, offering cool green spaces and affording interesting architectural views of Perpignan's older structures.

The Cathedral Saint-Jean-Baptiste has 11th and 12th century chapels, glittering altars, unique nave that hosts beautiful altarpieces in the Catalan style, and an interesting cupola and clock tower. Retables (altarpieces) from the 17th-century also grace the cathedral. A painted and carved head depicting the demise of John the Baptist hangs from the vaulted ceiling in the nave. This church is the starting point of the famous "Sanch Procession ("the Lord's precious blood")," celebrated in Perpignan and two other French villages. The tradition, once forbidden by the Roman Church, was banned in the 18th century as being "too baroque." It now takes place in Perpignan on Good Friday during Roman Catholic Holy Week. Historically, a distinctive high-peaked, masked robe is used to protect the identity of prisoners being led to their town's annual execution. This practical ceremony intermingled with Christian traditions of Good Friday is a ritual dating from 1416 when the Brotherhood of the Sanch was founded under the direction of St Vincent Ferrier, a Dominican monk. The penitents taking part today are dressed in red or black capes (called "caperutxa") and conical hoods and carry "misteris," heavy statues representing different scenes of the Passion.

At the top of the town, the Spanish citadel encloses the Palace of the Kings of Majorca. The government has restored this structure, built in the 13th and 14th centuries, around a court encircled by arcades. You can see the old throne room, with its large fireplaces, and a square tower with a double gallery, some contemporary art, and a great view of the Pyrenees.

What this amazingly easy drive from our local 'home' near Girona teaches us on this trip to Perpignan is the ease that the European Union has created for travelers to this continent. There is no stress in driving from one border to another. And the surprises and treasures of each village, no matter the size, are a delight to our sense of adventure. We also realize that whatever one may think or feel about the Roman Catholic Church, it continues to be a repository for and steward of the art, history, and culture of early Europe. One can walk into any church in Europe and 'read' illustrious art history. The churches, big and small, tell us great stories about where its people have been. (Photography: Stephanie and Steve Chambers)